The story of Tupper’s beers is well known in beer circles.

It’s like a beer fairy tale, really. Bob and Ellie Tupper were beer enthusiasts that toured the globe, seeking out beers, trying them, and taking notes. Finally, after tasting literally thousands of beers, they decided to make their own.

You belong to me, I believe.

Working with Dominion Brewing, a craft brewer near Washington, D.C., they perfected their Hop Pocket Ale. It was the early ’90s, and craft brewing had only begun it’s latest wave. Almost immediately, the beer community took notice, and word spread quickly about this new brew. Reports were almost universally positive, and in 1997 the success led to the Tuppers developing another beer, Tupper’s Hop Pocket Pils. Both beers were contract brewed by Dominion, and sales were looking up.

In early 2007, the owner of Dominion Brewing, Jerry Bailey, sold the company to Coastal Brewing Company, a joint venture between Annapolis, Maryland’s Fordham Brewing and Anheuser-Busch. By August the new ownership discontinued the contract to brew Tupper’s beers, with another regional favorite, New River Pale Ale, following the same fate later in the year.

Unfortunately, New River folded, and their excellent Pale Ale will likely never be seen again. The Tuppers, however, were committed to keeping their beers alive, and began a lengthy search for a brewery with the capacity to contract brew their products. Few brewers were willing to brew the beer, which is expensive to brew (relatively speaking) compared to many ales, and utilizes a lengthy fermentation process, tying up valuable brewing capacity. After two years of searching, the right situation was found at the St. George Brewing Company in Hampton. St. George even purchased some of the Dominion Brewing equipment after the facility was shuttered by the new owners, and production of the Dominion beers moved out of state.

Your writer, bravely sampling the brew.

Production began in 2009, and the first Hop Pocket Ales hit the D.C. area in January. Recently, the ale made it’s way back to Hampton Roads, and, even at the increased price (about $10/4pk) I simply had to see if the magic was still there. I wasn’t disappointed – the same clear amber body with the familiar thick eggshell head. Perfumey hop scents dominate the nose, backed by a light caramel aroma. The flavor will keep even the most jaded hop head happy, a light caramel that is almost, but not quite, beaten into submission with a healthy dose of earth and citrus, creating a mellow bitter that lingers on the tongue.

Sipping this beer is like chatting with an old friend to me, one that was sorely missed. Let’s hope this renewed acquaintance lasts a long, long time.

NEW AND NOTABLE:

• Left Hand Brewing 400 Pound Monkey recently hit the shelves en masse locally. This is Left Hand’s new IPA, and an addition to their stable of year ’round beers.
• Sierra Nevada celebrates their 30^th anniversary this year, and has some special brews lined up for the occasion, the first of which is now available here in Hampton Roads. For this beer, Sierra Nevada’s Ken Grossman collaborated with brewing legend Fritz Maytag of Anchor Brewing to create a big imperial stout. Look for Fritz and Ken’s Ale in corked and caged 750ml bottles.
• Sadly, Richmond’s Richbrau Brewing closed it’s doors forever, victims of the current economy.
• Keep an eye out for Hoppin’ Frog and Grand Teton beers – should be hitting shelves soon!